Butora’s Altura Climbing Shoe

  Today there are hundreds of models of climbing shoes to choose from. But if you are looking for a climbing shoe that can smear, edge, climb cracks, and be comfortable enough to wear all day on multi-pitch routes, your options can be counted on one hand. A trad climbing shoe also needs to be designed and constructed to take the abuse of being constantly jammed into cracks of various sizes. The Altura by Butora fulfills all of these criteria and is, in my opinion, the best crack climbing shoe available today. Design Any climbing shoe can be used to …

Yangshuo China: arrival

After over  24 hours of non stop travel I finally arrived Yangshou China. Travel is never an easy thing, despite all the planning and preparation journeying halfway around the world is seldom without complications. With the recent airline terrorist threat , security at US airports in now at a heightened level, which in my case meant long lines. As result I came very close to missing my flight from Los Angeles to Guangzhuo. In fact, I had to run to the gate and they literally closed the planes door after I stepped inside. The flight was 14 + hours, but …

Blue Mass Scenic Area

Last weekend Laura Ditolla and I headed to the western of UT to scout the Blue Mass Scenic area as a potential location NOLS might be able to use for climbing camps. I briefly visited the area in October and was impressed by the unique granite found there. The rock is a cross between City of Rocks, ID and the Needles of SD. The Blue Mass scenic area is located at 7,500 feet. Due to little or no snow accumulations this season, I was anxious get up there and have a detailed look, before a big storm block the road. …

Thanksgiving/The Creek

I once again spent Thanksgiving in Indian Creek, UT. For the last two Thanksgivings I have been guiding in Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas, NV, so it was a real treat to spent the holiday with some good friends away from the craziness of Vegas. Many other people also make the sojourn to the Creek for Thanksgiving, so I am usually more focused on spending time with friends, that I have not seen for a long time, than getting in a lot of pitches. But we managed choose uncrowded cliffs and actually partook in some great climbing. Here is a link …

Slab Climbing Argh!

I returned from a short climbing trip to Joshua Tree, CA with my friends Brigitte and Szu-ting. 20 years ago I used to be a good slab climber, able to trust my feet on the smallest most insecure footholds and competently run it out to the next bolt. This past week in Joshua Tree, even though I climb several number grades harder than I did 20 years ago, I found that I had lost most of my slab climbing ability. Even with my super comfy and sticky Evolve Defy SE and edge climbing masters the Pontas lace up shoes I …

Joining the Evolv Team

Over the summer I met with Buck Branson of Evolve to discuss what I am doing in the climbing world as well as talk about some of my projects to promote social and environmental responsibility in the US and abroad. As a result I am thrilled to be joining the Evolve team. I will be involved in product testing of present and future products and hope to be able to use my four decades of climbing experience to improve Evolves already great line up of climbing and approach shoes. Evolve is a small company committed to producing amazing climbing shoes …