One of the first people I met in Lander WY, when I started working for the National Outdoor Leadership School, was Mike Lilygren. He was working at Wild Iris, the only outdoor gear store in Lander. He was a climber and we quickly became friends. Mike is an outgoing talkative guy, but he never talked much about himself. Months after we first met I came across an issue of National Geographic Magazine who’s featured story was about a successful expedition to climb Trango Tower in Pakistan. When I looked at photo credit of the familiar looking climber on the cover I learned it …
We had a great trekking and Qigong trip to the Tibetan Plateau this August. Here is a video that shows the last three days of the trip
Szu-ting Yi just published her second book on climbing instruction. Her newest book Traditional Climbing details is the first book written (not just translated) in Chinese on who to place climbing protection, build anchors, lead traditional climbs, mult-pitch and conduct self rescue techniques. Here she is getting a work signing books for her fans!
In June Szu-ting and I flew to Beijing to teach Rock Climbing classes, give slide shows and also attend the opening of the new Black Diamond store.
June 17, 2014 I have been avoiding looking at the clock all evening, but I know it’s late. Szu-ting Yi and I are scrambling to tick off all the last minutes details that leaving the country for several months requires. For the last four years we have spent the summer and sometimes fall in Asia, so we know the drill. We make sure we have our passports with the appropriate visas, bank cards to access cash and everything else will fall into place. Right?Szu-ting and I live an unusual life. For half the year we travel around the Western US working …
In May 2013, Keith and Lauren Malloy contacted us after I sent in this story to Patagonia about my R1 Hoody Worn Wear – The Stories We Wear We ended up meeting their film crew in Red Rocks and spending couple days on the other side of the lens as they filmed us climbing and hanging out in our van. Our segment did not make the movie, but they sent us this edit.
On April 20, A climber was injured in a fall on the Regular Route of Higher Cathedral Spire in Yosemite National Park, CA. Yosemite Search and Rescue was efficient and effective in evacuating the climber in just two and half hours!
I returned from my East Coast Slide Show tour on my 50th birthday and drove from Las Vegas to Yosemite! With my shoulder still in rehabilitation mode, I spent my time in Yosemite hiking, taking photos/video and trying to finish some projects. Meanwhile Szu-ting Yi teamed up with friend John Cunningham to climb the Nose route up El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. I filmed their preparation, climbing and met them on top of the wall. Check out the video.
I was selected as a semifinalist in the 2014 The Banff Mountain Photo Essay Competition. Here are my submissions
While on the East Coast I visited with my old friend and climbing partner Arthur Haines. Arthur lives in Western Maine and is the foremost expert on identifying native plant species in New England. Haines has also extensively researched how Native Americans used local plants and animals. Medical anthropology has shown that many of the chronic diseases humans suffer from today were not found in indigenous populations. Haines believes observations of how indigenous people used their landscape combined with modern scientific research of local flora and fauna, will lead to people living healthier more fulfilling lives. Haines also runs the Delta …