In the final episode of the Genyen series, Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi return to the Tibetan Plateau in 2014. With locals more tolerant of outsiders exploring the mountains they plan to attempt the still unclimbed peak called Hutsa. They have attempt the peak three times in the past eight years. Bad weather, illness, and access issues have prevented them from standing on top of the peak, will this be the year?
Szu-ting and I spent the month of February in Mexico climbing in El Potrero Chico. We climbed with one of my old friends John Brewer. Here is a short video I shot of him climbing some hard limestone. Fifteen years ago doctors told John Brewer he would never climb again. Today at 53 years young, John not only climbs, but continues to send harder and harder routes. John lives in Moab Utah, but spends most winters in Mexico seeking out challenging overhanging limestone sport routes such as Nemo (5.13b) at Potrero Chico. Hopefully, at some point I can get John …
When I returned from Chile, I received an email from a producer at National Geographic Radio asking if I would be interested in doing an interview for their weekend program. A few weeks later I chatted with Boyd Matson birding, riding on the back of a motorcycle across China and climbing mountains.
In the third installment of the Genyen series, Dave Anderson returns with Szu-ting Yi and Eric Salazar to attempt the unclimbed peak Hutsa. However, the team faces several challenges that are outside of their control.
One of the first people I met in Lander WY, when I started working for the National Outdoor Leadership School, was Mike Lilygren. He was working at Wild Iris, the only outdoor gear store in Lander. He was a climber and we quickly became friends. Mike is an outgoing talkative guy, but he never talked much about himself. Months after we first met I came across an issue of National Geographic Magazine who’s featured story was about a successful expedition to climb Trango Tower in Pakistan. When I looked at photo credit of the familiar looking climber on the cover I learned it …
We had a great trekking and Qigong trip to the Tibetan Plateau this August. Here is a video that shows the last three days of the trip
Szu-ting Yi just published her second book on climbing instruction. Her newest book Traditional Climbing details is the first book written (not just translated) in Chinese on who to place climbing protection, build anchors, lead traditional climbs, mult-pitch and conduct self rescue techniques. Here she is getting a work signing books for her fans!
In June Szu-ting and I flew to Beijing to teach Rock Climbing classes, give slide shows and also attend the opening of the new Black Diamond store.
June 17, 2014 I have been avoiding looking at the clock all evening, but I know it’s late. Szu-ting Yi and I are scrambling to tick off all the last minutes details that leaving the country for several months requires. For the last four years we have spent the summer and sometimes fall in Asia, so we know the drill. We make sure we have our passports with the appropriate visas, bank cards to access cash and everything else will fall into place. Right?Szu-ting and I live an unusual life. For half the year we travel around the Western US working …
In May 2013, Keith and Lauren Malloy contacted us after I sent in this story to Patagonia about my R1 Hoody Worn Wear – The Stories We Wear We ended up meeting their film crew in Red Rocks and spending couple days on the other side of the lens as they filmed us climbing and hanging out in our van. Our segment did not make the movie, but they sent us this edit.