Climbing Clinics in Bai He, China

  Bai He is beautiful scenic area located in northeastern China. For Beijingers, Bai He offers a weekend escape from the hustle and bustle of a city with 11.5 million people. Szu-ting and I taught 2  three day clinics. The training included how to place removable climbing protection, build anchors, lead trad climbs, belay a follower during a multi-pitch climb and many other climbing techniques. The overall goal was to help Chinese climbers transition into climbing traditional (non bolted) rock climbs. We limited the class size to just 4 people to allow the participants time to practice and get individual feedback. In …

China – Travel and Slide Show

I would like to think I have gotten better with my time management skills. However, packing and preparing leave the US for the next month kept me busy until it started to get light the morning of our departure. After a long flight to Beijing, we were greeted by our good friends Apple and Wang Lei who whisked us away to an apartment in the city. We crashed hard after 24 hours of travel. The next evening we battled jet lag in attempt to stay awake and present a slide show at the Black Diamond store. The topic was climbing …

Dean Potter’s First Visit To Patagonia

While I was not a close friend of Dean Potter, I spent enough time with him to understand some of the passion he had for exploring the world and pushing his physical and mental limits. In the days after his death the media was full judgement about his chosen life. I wrote this piece for the Alpinist. Dean Potter’s First Visit to Patagonia – Alpinist.com I first met Dean Potter while hurtling through the sky at 500 miles per hour buckled into seats of a Boeing 737, flying south to Argentina. As I gazed out of the jet’s window at …

Simple Trick To Make Expensive Outdoor Footwear Last Longer

  Simple Trick To Make Expensive Outdoor Footwear Last Longer Materials and construction techniques continue to advance, and outdoor footwear is lighter and better (and more expensive) than ever. Here’s a trick to add longevity to your mountain kicks. Footwear has evolved. Trail hikers, boots, and approach shoes now have construction that’s much more complex than similar footwear built a decade back. Different types of stitching, gluing, and fabric-welding techniques can be found in one pair of shoes. These manufacturing processes improve the function of footwear. But they also increase the number of seams and interfacing materials, creating more potential wear points. Quick Solution By coating the seams …

Genyen 5 The Year of the Horse

In the final episode of the Genyen series, Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi return to the Tibetan Plateau in 2014. With locals more tolerant of outsiders exploring the mountains they plan to attempt the still unclimbed peak called Hutsa. They have attempt the peak three times in the past eight years. Bad weather, illness, and access issues have prevented them from standing on top of the peak, will this be the year?