Desert Towers

In December Szu-ting and I finished up a climbing and media project exploring desert towers in the Four Corners region of the Southwestern US. We worked with Arcteryx and Butora providing text, photos and video about Szu-ting’s ascents of some classic and some not so classic desert towers. check out the video links:

Secret Moon Cake

In September Szu-ting and I returned to the Siguniang Mountains in China to attempt a new route on Eagle Peak East (5300m). We had many hurdles to overcome including permits issues, terrible weather, run-out climbing and dirt filled cracks. But at the end of our expedition we got a short weather window that allowed us to establish Secret Moon Cake V 5.10.

Black Diamond Equipment and Genyen Massif of China

For the last year Szu-ting and I have been collaborating with Black Diamond Equipment on providing content for their website. The project has focussed on our expeditions to the Genyen Massif of Western China. It was great to see the five video I shot and edited on their website as well as still images on the Instagram account. Many people enjoyed the series and one person wrote, “Another great set of stories – really strong metaphors about handling adversity, taking risks and knowing what you can/can’t control…plus the beauty of the valley and mountains…really inspiring!!”        

Climbing Clinics in Bai He, China

  Bai He is beautiful scenic area located in northeastern China. For Beijingers, Bai He offers a weekend escape from the hustle and bustle of a city with 11.5 million people. Szu-ting and I taught 2  three day clinics. The training included how to place removable climbing protection, build anchors, lead trad climbs, belay a follower during a multi-pitch climb and many other climbing techniques. The overall goal was to help Chinese climbers transition into climbing traditional (non bolted) rock climbs. We limited the class size to just 4 people to allow the participants time to practice and get individual feedback. In …

China – Travel and Slide Show

I would like to think I have gotten better with my time management skills. However, packing and preparing leave the US for the next month kept me busy until it started to get light the morning of our departure. After a long flight to Beijing, we were greeted by our good friends Apple and Wang Lei who whisked us away to an apartment in the city. We crashed hard after 24 hours of travel. The next evening we battled jet lag in attempt to stay awake and present a slide show at the Black Diamond store. The topic was climbing …

Dean Potter’s First Visit To Patagonia

While I was not a close friend of Dean Potter, I spent enough time with him to understand some of the passion he had for exploring the world and pushing his physical and mental limits. In the days after his death the media was full judgement about his chosen life. I wrote this piece for the Alpinist. Dean Potter’s First Visit to Patagonia – I first met Dean Potter while hurtling through the sky at 500 miles per hour buckled into seats of a Boeing 737, flying south to Argentina. As I gazed out of the jet’s window at …

Simple Trick To Make Expensive Outdoor Footwear Last Longer

  Simple Trick To Make Expensive Outdoor Footwear Last Longer Materials and construction techniques continue to advance, and outdoor footwear is lighter and better (and more expensive) than ever. Here’s a trick to add longevity to your mountain kicks. Footwear has evolved. Trail hikers, boots, and approach shoes now have construction that’s much more complex than similar footwear built a decade back. Different types of stitching, gluing, and fabric-welding techniques can be found in one pair of shoes. These manufacturing processes improve the function of footwear. But they also increase the number of seams and interfacing materials, creating more potential wear points. Quick Solution By coating the seams …